Fabric GSM and Finished Width Chart for Knitted Fabrics (Single Jersey, Rib, Pique, Terry & Fleece)

Comprehensive Guide to Fabric GSM and Finished Width for Knitted Fabrics

Understanding the relationship between fabric GSM (grams per square meter), yarn count, and finished fabric width is crucial for textile professionals, knitwear manufacturers, and apparel brands. The finished width of fabric depends on several parameters such as yarn composition, knitting machine gauge, elastane content, and finishing techniques like peach finish or brushing. This guide provides a detailed reference of fabric width for various types of knitted fabrics, including single jersey, rib, pique, French terry, fleece, interlock, and modal blends.

1. Importance of GSM and Fabric Width

GSM (Grams per Square Meter): Indicates the fabric weight and thickness. A higher GSM means heavier and thicker fabric, commonly used for winter wear, while lower GSM fabrics are lightweight and ideal for summer garments.

Finished Width: Refers to the width of the fabric after all finishing processes (compaction, heat-setting, or peach finish). Width may reduce by approximately 2 inches if a peach finish is applied, as it involves surface abrasion.

Yarn Count: Determines the fineness or coarseness of the fabric. For example, 40/1 yarn produces lighter and finer fabrics compared to 20/1 yarn, which is thicker and heavier.

2. Fabric Types and Width Specifications

A. 100% Cotton Single Jersey (S/J) Fabrics

Single jersey fabrics are versatile and widely used for T-shirts and casual wear. Based on GSM and yarn count:

110–120 GSM (40/1 yarn): 52″ – 68″ width (machine sizes 26″×24 to 36″×24).

160 GSM (26/1 yarn): 60″ – 77″ width.

200–220 GSM (20/1 yarn): 64″ – 78″ width.

Note: For peach-finished fabrics, reduce width by 2″.

B. Heavy Jersey, CVC, and PC Blends

230–300 GSM: Heavy jersey (cotton/polyester blends) typically ranges from 70″ to 76″ finished width, with yarn counts varying from 30/2 to 20/2.

CVC (60% cotton, 40% polyester) and PC (65% polyester, 35% cotton) blends maintain dimensional stability and shrinkage control.

C. Elastane-Enhanced Fabrics

Cotton or polyester blends with 5% elastane require special consideration due to stretch.

150–200 GSM (40/1 + 20D spandex): 52″ – 78″ width.

230–240 GSM (30/1 + 40D spandex): 54″ – 74″ width.

D. Viscose and Modal Blends

Viscose and modal fabrics offer a soft hand feel and luxurious drape.

100% Viscose S/J: 58″ – 70″ width for GSM 130–160.

50% Cotton 50% Modal: 52″ – 77″ width based on GSM 110–180.

E. Pique Fabrics (Single & Double Lacoste)

Pique fabrics, popular for polo shirts, vary by yarn count:

160–240 GSM (100% cotton or CVC/PC blends): 66″ – 78″ finished width.

With Elastane: Width ranges between 66″ – 78″ for 150–220 GSM fabrics.

F. French Terry & Fleece

French Terry (Unbrushed, Two-Thread): 60″ – 77″ width for GSM 190–280.

Three-Thread Fleece (Brushed): 68″ – 80″ width for GSM 240–360.

Polyester blends (CVC or PC fleece) may reach up to 80″ width.

G. Rib Fabrics (1x1, 2x2, and Lycra Ribs)

Rib fabrics are primarily used for neckbands, cuffs, and waistbands:

1x1 Rib (100% Cotton): 54″ – 74″ width for GSM 140–250.

With Elastane: 58″ – 76″ width for GSM 190–260.

2x2 Rib (Full Feeder Lycra Rib): 42″ – 60″ width for GSM 150–260.

H. Interlock Fabrics

Interlock fabrics are thicker, with excellent drape and stretch.

190–240 GSM: 58″ – 78″ finished width, based on yarn counts from 40/1 to 30/1.

3. Key Considerations in Width Determination

Machine Diameter and Gauge: The number of needles (e.g., 26″×24, 30″×28) directly affects the fabric width.

Fabric Composition: Cotton, polyester, viscose, and elastane blends behave differently during finishing.

Finishing Processes: Compaction, heat-setting, and brushing can alter the final width.

Shrinkage Allowance: Pre-shrinkage treatments reduce dimensional instability in garment processing.

4. Conclusion

A precise understanding of GSM, yarn count, and finished fabric width helps manufacturers ensure accurate fabric consumption, minimize wastage, and achieve consistent quality. This comprehensive fabric width chart serves as a valuable reference for knitwear factories, merchandisers, and apparel designers.