Relationship among Count, GSM & Stitch Length in Knitted Fabrics
This document explores the relationship between yarn count (Ne), Grams per Square Meter (GSM), and stitch length in various knitted fabrics, including 1 Rib, 2 Rib, Single Jersey, and STB Pique (PQ). The data presented provides insights into how these parameters interact to influence the fabric's properties.
1 Rib
| GSM | Count (Ne) | Stitch Length |
| :---- | :---------- | :------------- |
| 190 | 34 | 2.50 |
| | 32 | 2.50/2.55 |
| 200 | 32 | 2.55 |
| | 30 | 2.60 |
| 220 | 60/2 | 2.52 |
| 230 | 32+40L | 2.70 |
| 240 | 30+40DL | 2.7-2.75 |
| 250/255/260 | 28 | 2.55 |
| | 30+40L | 2.65 |
| | 28+40L | 2.70 |
| | 24 | 2.70-2.75 |
| 280 | 20 | 2.90 |
| 320 | 24+40L | 2.70 |
| | 26+55L | 2.70 |
| | 26+70L | 2.70 |
| 350/360 | 24+70L | 2.65 |
| | 26+70L | 2.65 |
| 325 | 16 | 3.3-3.35 |
| 365 | 32/2 | 3.12 |
| | 16 | 3.25 |
| 380 | 34/2 | 3.65 |
| 400 | 30/2 | 3.10 |
| 260 | 28+40L | 2.7 |
| 270 | 28+40L | 2.65 |
| 280 | 28+40L | 2.60 |
| 240 | 30+40DL | 2.65-2.75 |
| 250 | 30+40DL | 2.6-2.65 |
Observations:
Generally, as the yarn count decreases (i.e., the yarn becomes thicker), the GSM tends to increase.
Stitch length also plays a crucial role; longer stitch lengths often correlate with higher GSM values, but this relationship can be influenced by yarn count.
The addition of Lycra (indicated by "L" or "DL") affects the fabric's stretch and recovery, which can influence the GSM and required stitch length for a given count.
2 Rib
| GSM | Count (Ne) | Stitch Length |
| :---- | :---------- | :------------- |
| 205 | 36+20L | 1.95 |
| 220 | 30 | 2.6/2.65 |
| 320 | 28+40L | 2.75 |
| 340 | 26+55L | 2.70 |
| 350 | 26+70L | 2.70 |
| 360 | 24+40L | 2.70 |
| | 24+70L | 2.95 |
| 380 | 24+70L | 2.70 |
| 400/420 | 20+70L | 2.90-3.00 |
| 450 | 36/2+70L | 3.00 |
| | 34/2+70L | 3.10 |
Observations:
Similar to 1 Rib, a lower yarn count (thicker yarn) generally leads to a higher GSM.
The presence of Lycra significantly impacts the stitch length needed to achieve a desired GSM.
2 Rib structures tend to have higher GSM values compared to 1 Rib for similar yarn counts and stitch lengths, due to the increased yarn consumption in the rib structure.
Single Jersey
| GSM | Count (Ne) | Stitch Length |
| :---- | :---------- | :------------- |
| 120 | 40 | 2.45/2.50 |
| 135 | 40(8c)+30(5c) | 2.60+3.00 |
| 135 | 40 | 2.40 |
| 140/145 | 34 | 2.60 |
| | 32 | 2.70 |
| | 30 | 2.8/2.85 |
| 150 | 34 | 2.50 |
| | 32 | 2.65 |
| | 30 | 2.70-2.80 |
| | 28 | 2.80 |
| 160 | 28 | 2.7-2.75 |
| | 40+20L | 2.75-2.80 |
| 170 | 34+20L | 2.95 |
| 180 | 34+20L | 2.90 |
| 190 | 22 | 3.02 |
| 220 | 16 | 3.30 |
| 235 | 16 | 3.45 |
Observations:
The inverse relationship between yarn count and GSM is evident. Finer yarns (higher count) result in lower GSM values.
Stitch length adjustments are used to control the GSM for a given yarn count.
The addition of Lycra ("L") influences the stitch length, generally requiring a longer stitch length to achieve a specific GSM compared to fabrics without Lycra.
STB Pique (PQ)
| GSM | Count (Ne) | Stitch Length |
| :---- | :---------- | :------------- |
| 190 | 28 | 2.55 |
| 210 | 24 | 2.65 |
| | 26 | 2.62 |
| | 30+30L | 2.65 |
| 215 | 28+30L | 2.65 |
| 220 | 24 | 2.68 |
| | 20/22 | 3.10-3.25 |
| | 40/2 | 3.10-3.25 |
Observations:
The relationship between count, GSM, and stitch length holds true for STB Pique as well.
The pique structure, with its characteristic texture, influences the GSM compared to a plain jersey structure for similar yarn counts and stitch lengths.
Blended yarns and ply yarns (e.g., 40/2) impact the stitch length required to achieve a target GSM.
General Conclusions:
Yarn Count and GSM: There's an inverse relationship between yarn count (Ne) and GSM. Finer yarns (higher count
|
GSM
|
COUNT
(Ne)
|
STITCH
|
|
|
|
|
|
190
|
34
|
2.50
|
|
|
32
|
2.50/2.55
|
|
|
|
|
|
200
|
32
|
2.55
|
|
|
30
|
2.60
|
|
|
|
|
|
220
|
60/2
|
2.52
|
|
|
|
|
|
230
|
32+40L
|
2.70
|
|
|
|
|
|
240
|
30+40DL
|
2.7-2.75
|
|
|
|
|
|
250/255/260
|
28
|
2.55
|
|
|
30+40L
|
2.65
|
|
|
28+40L
|
2.70
|
|
|
24
|
2.70-2.75
|
|
|
|
|
|
280
|
20
|
2.90
|
|
|
|
|
|
320
|
24+40L
|
2.70
|
|
|
26+55L
|
2.70
|
|
|
26+70L
|
2.70
|
|
|
|
|
|
350/360
|
24+70L
|
2.65
|
|
|
26+70L
|
2.65
|
|
|
|
|
|
325
|
16
|
3.3-3.35
|
|
|
|
|
|
365
|
32/2
|
3.12
|
|
|
16
|
3.25
|
|
|
|
|
|
380
|
34/2
|
3.65
|
|
400
|
30/2
|
3.10
|
|
GSM
|
COUNT
|
STITCH
|
|
|
|
|
|
260
|
28+40L
|
2.7
|
|
270
|
28+40L
|
2.65
|
|
280
|
28+40L
|
2.60
|
|
|
|
|
|
240
|
30+40DL
|
2.65-2.75
|
|
250
|
30+40DL
|
2.6-2.65
|
|
GSM
|
COUNT
(Ne)
|
STITCH
|
|
|
|
|
|
205
|
36+20L
|
1.95
|
|
|
|
|
|
220
|
30
|
2.6/2.65
|
|
|
|
|
|
320
|
28+40L
|
2.75
|
|
|
|
|
|
340
|
26+55L
|
2.70
|
|
|
|
|
|
350
|
26+70L
|
2.70
|
|
|
|
|
|
360
|
24+40L
|
2.70
|
|
|
24+70L
|
2.95
|
|
|
|
|
|
380
|
24+70L
|
2.70
|
|
|
|
|
|
400/420
|
20+70L
|
2.90-3.00
|
|
|
|
|
|
450
|
36/2+70L
|
3.00
|
|
|
34/2+70L
|
3.10
|
|
GSM
|
Count
(Ne)
|
Stitch
|
|
120
|
40
|
2.45/2.50
|
|
|
|
|
|
135
|
40(8c)+30(5c)
|
2.60+3.00
|
|
135
|
40
|
2.40
|
|
|
|
|
|
140/145
|
34
|
2.60
|
|
|
32
|
2.70
|
|
|
30
|
2.8/2.85
|
|
|
|
|
|
150
|
34
|
2.50
|
|
|
32
|
2.65
|
|
|
30
|
2.70-2.80
|
|
|
28
|
2.80
|
|
|
|
|
|
160
|
28
|
2.7-2.75
|
|
|
40+20L
|
2.75-2.80
|
|
|
|
|
|
170
|
34+20L
|
2.95
|
|
|
|
|
|
180
|
34+20L
|
2.90
|
|
|
|
|
|
190
|
22
|
3.02
|
|
|
|
|
|
220
|
16
|
3.30
|
|
235
|
16
|
3.45
|
|
GSM
|
COUNT
(Ne)
|
STITCH
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
190
|
28
|
2.55
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
210
|
24
|
2.65
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
26
|
2.62
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
30+30L
|
2.65
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
215
|
28+30L
|
2.65
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
220
|
24
|
2.68
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
20/22
|
3.10-3.25
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
40/2
|
3.10-3.25
STB PQ
|